Derek and I are talking about moving to Washington for our "year of adventure" after he retires and before Isaac starts kindergarten. Who knows if this is actually where we'll live for those nine or so months, but we decided to travel there for spring break to scope things out. We were interested specifically in the Chelan/Leavenworth area, three to four hours east of Seattle. We like the idea of being near water (Lake Chelan and several major rivers including the Columbia), near mountains, and away from the densely populated western part of the state, especially because that puts us closer to road trip adventures in Montana and Utah.
But a quick pause. Before I begin this post, I want to pay tribute to one part of the PNW: Olympia, Washington - a humble, beautiful, and strange city that is, in many ways, a big reason for me wanting to get back to this part of the world. So please bear with me for a few paragraphs and then I'll jump into the recs for traveling to WA with littles. :) Thanks!
Twenty years ago this August (!!!) I moved to Olympia. I was fresh out of college, on a whole new coast with a job in AmeriCorps, without a place to live (thank you Heather who sat next to me at orientation and let me crash on her couch for two weeks), and excited out of my mind to be on my own for the first time. I maintain that it was in Olympia where I learned the most about who I was, what I wanted in life, and how I wanted to contribute to my community. I also fell in love with the setting - the smell of old-growth forest, the misty rain, the hippy culture, and all that luscious green.
Olympia is the state's capital. It has a fantastic farmer's market and waterfront, beautiful parks with old growth trees, and views of the Olympic range and Mt. Rainier. But perhaps my favorite part of the city is its grass-roots organizing - instead of just talking about making the world a better place, the Olympia folks I got to know actually did something to make positive change happen.
While living in Oly, I did two stints with AmeriCorps, worked in an independent bookstore and went to grad school. I finally left to take my first teaching job an hour north in Seattle, where I stayed for another eight years working in the Highline School District south of the city.
Needless to say, 13 years in Washington - almost all of my twenties and half of my thirties - made an impression. And now I'm ready to go back.
I went down ahead of Derek and spent five days with my parents on the Olympic Peninsula in Lilliwaup, about 15 minutes north of Hoodsport (check out our post on traveling with grandparents here). Then Derek joined us and we spent a night in Cle Elum and then five more nights in Manson on Lake Chelan. We ended with a birthday party for Autumn and an overnight visit with my dear aunt, Joyce, in Burien (near Seattle). It was a fabulous trip! We had perfect weather and more to do and see than we could fit into two weeks.
This post is about what we found was fun to do as a family. I stress that because I'm not including, say, the deliciousness of fresh Olympia oysters or an afternoon wine tasting in Manson, WA since our kids didn't really participate in those. Also, it's really hard for me to leave out all the other things I know that you could do from my time living there, but I will and instead I'll just stick to what we actually did on this trip.
The Pacific Northwest is magical, for families and non-families alike. You could live there your whole life without getting to everything. So obviously this highlight reel is quite limited. Probably there will be a "Trip to Washington State: Summer edition" post come September 2023 because whether we move there or not, we're definitely going back for a massive road trip with the camper.
Olympic Peninsula Highlights
Reminder: The Olympic Peninsula is a reliably drizzly place October-May. There are literal rainforests here. While the eastern side of the peninsula is less rainy (and towns like Port Angeles and Sequim are in the rain shadow so have very little rain), it is important to be prepared with raincoats, extra socks, and layers whenever venturing outdoors. Even if there is a sun break, bring your raincoat (not your umbrella...who can hike with an umbrella?). Folks who get caught in the rain after a sun break tricks them into leaving gear behind are said to have been "sucker-holed".
1. Beaches
We stayed right on the Hood Canal above a private beach which was, sadly, too slippery for Isaac to move around easily and for me to feel comfortable carrying Autumn (the rocks were absolutely drenched in moss or some other green slime). But the TIDES. Oh my goodness. The swing was incredible and at the low tide point of the day, the birds - eagles, herons, ducks, and gulls (those were what I recognized at least) - came out to FEAST on the mollusks and crustaceans living in the muck. Our airbnb had the perfect deck from which to watch all of this, with star gazing at night to boot.
We also went to Dosewallips State Park and did a short walk out to the beach and back. Isaac topped his boots in a deep puddle ten minutes into the hour-long walk but kept on like a champ. It was pretty windy once we were out at the water, and it did rain on us, but the stones to throw and the birds to mimic made up for it. This park also has trails and a campground on the forest side of Rte 101 along the Dosewallips River. I would like to return here to explore those when we have the camper and more time.
2. Waterfalls & Forest Trails
We hiked to Rocky Brook Falls near Brinnon. The trail was short and level enough that my dad actually carried Autumn in his arms. Once again, Isaac topped his xtratufs when he eagerly jumped into one of the puddles around the falls, but there were so many wonders to explore that he barely noticed after a few minutes. I like that the trail to these falls is short enough that you can really spend time at the falls or walking down to the water to throw sticks or look for critters. The trees were enormous (as with all the trees in this area if you can get on a trail away from clearcuts and other logging activities) and covered in mysterious lichen (or moss?) - definitely the stuff of bed-time stories.
If we'd had more time, we probably would have done a drive to one of the other falls or out to the Staircase Trail on the North Fork Skokomish River (one of my favorite "easy" hikes in all of Washington state).
3. Ferry rides
While we drove from SeaTac airport to Lilliwaup to get onto the Peninsula (this is the "normal" way, by the way, and it takes you through Olympia), we took the ferry back. It added an hour or so to our commute, but it was totally worth it. Even the half hour leading up to getting on the ferry was fun because the kids could watch the sea birds and other boats coming in and out of the area and the little waiting room had great maritime pictures, boating paraphernalia, and a snack machine - all novelties for my littles. While you may not take our exact route (Southworth to Fauntleroy), I highly recommend getting on some sort of WA State Ferry if you're staying along the Bellingham - Tacoma I-5 corridor or on the Peninsula, even as a day trip to Vashon Island or something.
Once on the ferry, Isaac had a blast running up and down the aisles, braving the gusts on the bow and stern platforms, and, again, pining for treats from the vending machine (I caved this time and he got to try his first-ever yogurt-covered pretzel). He was amazed that our car drove right onto the ferry and loved learning why the blocks go under our tires (we were first in line). When someone didn't feel like moving around, the tables were comfortable with views that were hard to beat. To be fair, we had a gorgeous sunny day for this trip. Had it been raining, we probably would have driven. But maybe not...it was that fun for the kids (and my parents and me!).
4. Olympia
Olympia needs a section in and of itself, but as we only went there for a 1/2 day trip, it'll live with the rest of the Olympic Peninsula section. (Click the arrows to move through the pictures in the gallery):
Olympia Hands on Children's Museum Hands down (see what I did there?) the best museum I have ever been to - for kids or adults! I mean, it wasn't for adults, let's be honest, but it was so thoughtful, creative, fun, different. There was a ton to do and, yes, touch. They were conscientious about COVID but not overly so. Please go here. It was worth the drive (a little over an hour from our airbnb).
Old School Pizzeria I'm a sucker for pizza and Isaac is finally into it (Autumn eats anything). Grab a big slice or two and some garlic knots and you're set. And for the adults they have a great selection of local beers on tap and local sodas in the fridge.
Cle Elum gets a mention here even though we pulled in really late (Derek's flight was delayed) and rolled out before lunch. The Iron Horse Bed & Breakfast was fantastic (use the arrows to scroll through photos)! We stayed in one train caboose and my folks stayed in another. Matt and Leanne were welcoming and thought of small touches that would make traveling with kids just a little bit easier.
Chelan/Manson Highlights
We stayed on the "north shore" of Lake Chelan in a town called Manson. The town itself was cute (though mostly closed up given the lack of winter tourists) with a couple of beachfront parks and lots of wineries.
1. Ferry to Stehekin
Stehekin is only accessible by boat or foot. In the winter only the Lady Express runs up to Stehekin and back in about 5 hours, and what a beautiful trip! You get to spend 90 minutes in Stehekin which is just enough time to get off the boat, order some lunch at the little restaurant (they serve beer, too!), eat it, and do about a 30 minute walk up the road. You can also choose to pack a lunch and do a longer hike/walk or take one of local tours.
In the summer months there are three different ferry options for getting up to Stehekin, and we plan to go back and stay in either the lodge or at one of the rental cabins. There is a bus that takes people along Stehekin's one road to see historical sights, waterfalls, and to stop at the famous Stehekin Pastry Company (closed in the winter). We also hope to go to Lucerne, a stop on the ferry route that serves the Lutheran retreat village of Holden. You can stay in Holden or use it as a jumping off point to do some epic hiking in the North Cascades.
2. Lake Chelan State Park On the "north shore" of the lake, this park had a playground, roaming deer, water access, and lots of campsites. We were happy to let Isaac run around and test the slides while Autumn napped in the car. I think we'll be back to camp in this one.
3. Chelan Riverwalk Park
You can walk from one side of the river (which is one end of the lake. Lake Chelan is dammed.) to the other via two bridges and a lovely paved path, perfect for strollers, new walkers, and older folks who might be glad for the lack of rocks and roots. It is quick, pretty, and gives you an overview of the town. There is a beach along the way to stop for a snack and some stellar rock throwing.
4. Our Airbnb This place was excellent - three bedrooms (we were four adults and two kids) and two bathrooms with two of the rooms & a bath on one side of the open common space and the other room & bath on the other. The kitchen, living room and dining room were open and airy with beautiful floor to ceiling windows looking out onto Lake Chelan. Even though it's two rows back from waterfront, the houses in front of it are lower and so the views aren't really affected by the little bit of distance. We could walk into town along a neighborhood road in fewer than 20 minutes. The deck, facing the lake, had a gas fire pit and sofas, a table and chairs, and a hot tub with easily controlled temperatures for our kids. There was enough parking for three vehicles on one side of the house, and on the other was a big field where Isaac could run around. The place was spotless and modern and had everything we needed for cooking and entertainment. The one drawback - it wasn't really designed for little little kids. They didn't have a pack and play or a high chair. But other than that, it was perfect!
Burien Highlights
1. Three Tree Point Indian Trail A unique trail by any measure, this short, slightly sloping walking path starts in an unmarked spot on Maplewild Ave. SW, winds between colorful homes perched precariously on the steep slope, and ends at a little beach. You'll marvel at the ingenuity of the homes on either side of you. How do they not fall into the water? How do their inhabitants get their groceries down from the parking spots at the top of the hill? It's a fun one with kids for sure.
2. Bakery Nouveau
This is arguably the best bakery in the Seattle area. It's worth a visit every time. Autumn's birthday cake (a cheesecake) came from here. They also have locations in West Seattle and Capitol Hill.
3. Elliott Bay Brewing Company
We had Autumn's little birthday party here and it's so family friendly that it deserves a mention in this post. Their food is delicious, their beer is made in-house, and the staff are patient and thoughtful. They also have locations in West Seattle and Lake City.
4. Smarty Pants Garage Another family-friendly restaurant serving great beer and grub in Burien.
We are just scratching the surface of the Pacific Northwest. I mean, we haven't even checked out Oregon, Idaho, or northern California yet! What we've explored so far has been magical and completely conducive to adventuring with our kids.
Will we end up in a little rental cottage near Lake Chelan in a year and a half? I'm not sure yet. But I do know that we'll be back, Washington! On our list for sure - Winthrop, Hurricane Ridge, the Hoh Rainforest, Olympic beaches, the Space Needle, Pike's Place Market, the Olympia Farmer's Market, the San Juan Islands, Mt. Saint Helens, Mt. Rainier, and too many trails and campgrounds to mention.
Drop a note in the comments to let us know what else we should check out next time we're there. And as always, don't hesitate to send thoughts and questions to me any time. See you out there!
So fun!! You packed so much into your trip!! I love the PNW!!